Who let the dogs in?

Last Tuesday, Election Day, I worked at a poll site, as I did last year and may do again next year. It’s a long, grueling day—17-plus hours under school gym lights, staring at the same basketball trapped up in the rafters and searching up people’s election districts over and over again on a glitchy, Board of Elections-issued tablet. It was freezing cold in the site where I worked, but the energy and the assembled crew were warm, I like to think a microcosm of New York City. Each person takes their job with the utmost seriousness, to the point that we were on site until nearly 11PM, making sure every step of the process, every safeguard on top of safeguard, was completed perfectly. During the lulls in the day you always hear the best life stories, and that’s what brings me back.

And there were DOGS, streams of them trooping through in their little sweaters and vests and booties, accompanying their owners into the privacy booths where they (the owners) filled in their chosen bubbles. Never mind that there was a sign posted at the entrance, very clearly stating “no dogs allowed” with an unmistakable diagram to match. All of us workers, it turned out, were softies for dogs—plus we’re technically not supposed to ask the voter whether their dog is a support animal or not, so better just to assume they are.

Around midday, a couple of BOE inspectors wearing badges parked themselves near the entrance, where I was stationed as an information clerk. Soon after that I noticed a lady making her way down the entry corridor with her tiny dog. She glanced at the “no dogs” sign taped to the wall and then gave us the saddest look you’ve ever seen. We had a dilemma: if we waved her through, we risked revealing to the inspectors the fact that we’d been casually letting animals in all day—basically grand marshaling a pooch parade through the most somber of civic processes. The greeter by the door gave her head a firm shake.

“Then I just won’t vote, I guess,” the dog owner said, her voice quavering. Swiftly, the Spanish translator, a lovely woman originally from Puerto Rico, was on her feet and hurrying toward the would-be voter. I couldn’t see what was happening with the dog (who remained just out of the inspectors’ view the entire time), but it disappeared, its owner went in to vote, and the translator was back at her station before she was missed.

“What happened?” I asked later. She told me how she assured the woman of the dog’s safety and then brought it outside, where she negotiated with a greeter posted at the entrance to keep the dog warm and secure until the lady finished voting. There was never any question—this lady was registered, and it was our job to make sure she got her vote. My colleague empathized with how people in our city have come to rely on their dogs during covid, when the animal might have been their only companion or only ticket out of the house during the depths of lockdown. Licensed or not, every dog is a support dog.

“Did she need to be so dramatic, though?” My colleague wondered, referring to the owner’s ultimatum. “She could have just asked.”

The takeaway from the tale is this: Help when you can. And always know when to ask for help. I remind my kids of this constantly—to reach out or self-advocate early, before they reach total meltdown—but I’m not always so great at remembering this, myself.

So how does this remotely relate to food? The holidays are coming up, and many of us have not entertained in a while, at least not for large groups. The thought of pulling off an entire feast is overwhelming, if not terrifying. Ask for help. No need to be a hero or a martyr. Share the load. Most people love bringing a favorite dish, or showing off their wine knowledge, and there are others who excel at doing dishes or who relish the chance to escape the house for an ice run…or a dog walk. Let them help.

If you have cooking questions, there are places you can turn.

New York Times Cooking has a dedicated email, cookingcare@nytimes.com where you can send off your troubleshooting or technical questions. I love that this hearkens back to the days when you could dial up your local food editor mid-recipe with an SOS.

Food 52 has an online Hotline whose searchable topics might already contain your answer, no matter how obscure. If not, you can send yours in.

Turkey emergency? There’s a USDA Meat and Poultry Hotline at 1-888-674-6854. I haven’t tried it, but presumably you can call and ask whether, say, it’s safe to eat that turkey whose bagged giblets your forgot to remove from the cavity before roasting (technically that’s a no, but I confess I’ve done it and lived to tell)…

Feel free to drop a question in the comments below or email me at claibornemilde@gmail.com . I’ve been cooking a long time, sometimes professionally, and I’ve picked up a trick or two. There are a few recipes on here that are perfect for Thanksgiving, too.

Ways to help:

Is there a community fridge in your neighborhood? Stock it with some goodies. Kids love getting in on this action. In the greater NYC area this cool map points you to your closest free fridge.

Mutual aids are a great way to get and give help in your immediate community. We’ve been shopping for our local mutual aid throughout the pandemic.

Volunteer at a soup kitchen if you’re alone or not celebrating Thanksgiving.

Lend a hand making deliveries with a local food bank.

Check in on an elderly neighbor!

Finally, here’s a recipe for twice baked potatoes, a family classic my kids and my mom always make together. We’ll be bringing a huge round of these over to my lovely sister- and brother-in-law’s house, because they’re graciously hosting Thanksgiving this year.

Artwork by Cece Milde, Recipe adapted from Laura Williams. The key to this is “an obscene amount of everything.”

 

 

 

 

Ice Cream

One of the things I miss the most about our old life, the one before coronavirus, is going out for ice cream on the first warm days of spring. We are—were—fortunate to have two wonderful options within a couple of blocks of our house. The first, MilkMade, closed last fall, and I miss the little storefront with the pepto-colored trim and the innovative flavors like Haunted Hayride, Mango sticky rice, and Key Lime Pie (my favorite). All the ice creams were spun right there in the back, and on a hot summer night a tight queue of happy, sweaty families stretched halfway around the block. Remember tight queues?

Right across the street from the former MilkMade is Farmacy, which is temporarily closed. When we first moved to this neighborhood the space was a creepy, abandoned drugstore whose windows we used to peer through, speculating on what the story was there. It was littered with dust bunnies and weathered pharmaceutical products someone had just walked away from one day and never looked back. Luckily, some fine folks rescued and turned it into an old-fashioned soda fountain, its tiled floors and old pill cabinets beautifully preserved, a countertop with swivel stools where you can perch and watch the soda jerks work their magic with the shiny chrome equipment. We would pop in with the kids to get one of their creative sodas or sundaes, like the Pink Poodle or Sir Twix-a-Lot. We grownups liked to drown our afternoon slump in an affogato. I hope those days will be back soon.  

This weekend, the time was right for some ice cream, so I got my clunky old ice cream maker down. It’s heavy and it takes up too much cabinet real estate, but it has its own compressor so you don’t have to freeze a canister and if you really wanted to you could spin quart after quart, all day long. For our 2020 inaugural run I used up some mangos that were wrinkling in the fruit bowl. Those smaller, sweeter yellow mangoes called Ataulfo or Champagne mangos seem to be plentiful in the markets right now, and we had gotten a deal on a case of them. After the kids tired of having mango “hedgehogs” for breakfast I had to find a way to use the rest.

Wrinkly, flavorful Ataulfo mangoes

Wrinkly, flavorful Ataulfo mangoes

I developed a vegan mango ice cream with a slight hint of cardamom since I love that flavor and happen to have a fresh batch of cardamom. It gets its creaminess from coconut milk (I used the canned, unsweetened organic kind. You can get it without guar gum if that bothers you). A note on sugar and sweetening: the amount I specify in this recipe is low. That is because our mangos were super ripe and sweet, and I have been trying to go light on sugar in general. I would advise tasting your blend and deciding what works—and you can also experiment with alternative sweeteners like coconut sugar.  It’s so good! My family voted thumbs up and my daughter Cece said I should definitely put the recipe up here. Note: If you don’t have a machine I’ve included an alternative freezing method. Won’t be 100% the same but still delicious. You can also check out my all time favorite ice cream recipe, fresh mint leaf/chocolate chip, here or at its old blog home here.

Vegan mango cardamom ice cream

Vegan mango cardamom ice cream

Vegan Mango Cardamom Ice “Cream”

Ingredients:

  • 3 lbs very ripe whole mangos, preferably the smaller yellow Ataulfo aka Champagne mangos (around 5 of them)

  • 1/4 cup sugar — more or less to taste

  • juice of 1/2 lime

  • 1/4 tsp. ground cardamom

  • pinch salt

  • 1 cup unsweetened coconut milk

Instructions:

  1. Slice mango away from the pit on each side. Scoop the fruit out of the skins. Cut all the mango fruit you possibly can away from the pit, avoiding the hairy fibrous part close to the pit. Repeat this with all the mangos, discarding skins and pits.

  2. Put mango and all other ingredients in a blender and blend thoroughly until super smooth. Taste and add more sugar if needed—all mangos are different so sweeten accordingly! Chill mixture until quite cold.

  3. Freeze according to your ice cream maker’s instructions. If you don’t have an ice cream maker, freeze in a shallow container, going in every 20 minutes or so to stir and scrape with a fork, outer edges to center, until you’ve reached the consistency you like.