Positive distractions, and a recipe

If you’re waiting for spring in New York City, the month of March can feel like four years. To get through these chilly days, I’ve been distracting myself with wholesome winter videos of Montrealers’ antics in a recent snow dump, huskies refusing to come in from the cold, and old Warren Miller ski movies (absolute best voiceovers! Tonic for the soul! Second only to those of Sir David Attenborough). We will be choosing more snow for our spring break, so I think for now it’s best to just embrace it. 

Hints of spring: bright green shoots of tarragon and chives are emerging in our planter beds, reminding me of how resilient nature is and hinting toward a new season of produce and cooking. The sound of birdsong, even in this urban landscape, changes right about now and soon we’ll be hearing the squawking of red-winged blackbirds out back. 

Some things that are getting me through: 

Reasons to Be Cheerful is an independent publication and newsletter founded by musician David Byrne. I recently subscribed to this “weekly dose of dopamine for your inbox” as an antidote to the daily media avalanche, and I now receive positive news of the environmental, scientific, and human variety. 

In that vein, I also joined Front Porch Forum, a Vermont-only social network promoting “radical neighborliness” (it’s old school and kind of the anti-X). We’ve been spending more and more time in the Green Mountain state and I want to know more about what’s going on in the community. 

I’ve been fascinated by studies suggesting a beneficial link between hot chili peppers, microbiome diversity, and even ADHD mitigation. Maybe my craving for ultra spicy foods isn’t just thrill seeking, after all? Yay for science and research! And Ben for sharing this tidbit!

On the subject of food facts, did you know there’s a Museum of Food and Drink (MOFAD) in Brooklyn? It’s in DUMBO, above Time Out Market, and the current exhibit explores flavor. I’ve been volunteering as a docent at this small but mighty museum and love their message that food is culture and connects us all. The team behind MOFAD is pretty great, too.

If you’re in the Charlottesville, Virginia area, check out my sister Cassie’s art exhibit, “Liminal,” at Second Street Gallery, near the Downtown Mall. Her art is gorgeous and this excellent gallery always has something fresh on offer. 

The Philadelphia Flower Show is on at this writing, now through March 9. If you go there, immerse yourself in all things botanical, and say hi to my friend Kamila, who will be selling her beautiful art prints in maker’s booth M33 (if you’re nowhere near there you can still order her products online). 

Citrus always comes to the rescue this time of year, and I recently worked up this recipe inspired by a dessert I had at our local F&F Restaurant and Bar. It’s uncomplicated, bright and cheerful—all things we need right now. I love the play of tart citrus fruits against rich, lightly sweetened mascarpone. If you forgo the garnish there are just three ingredients. You can also check it out on my web site, along with other recipes I update seasonally. 

Recipe for pistachio-orange shortbread is on my site

Citrus & Mascarpone

Serves 4

Ingredients:

  • 6 citrus fruits, preferably a mix, for example: 1 large grapefruit, 3 oranges such as Cara Cara, plus 2 of “something else”, like blood orange and/or Meyer lemon.

  • 1 cup (8 oz.) mascarpone

  • 1 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar

  • Optional: bittersweet chocolate or fresh mint leaves for garnish

Instructions:

  1. Stir the mascarpone and sugar together well, and set aside at room temperature. The mascarpone should loosen up as it becomes less cold.

  2. Section (suprême) each fruit: cut off the ends just until the fruit beneath is visible, then stand fruit on end and cut along the curve of the fruit, removing the rind and white pith entirely but leaving as much of the fruit possible. Repeat until you have removed all the rinds completely. Next, using a sharp knife, cut along the membranes that divide each section, toward the center of the fruit, until you have skin-free segments. (Though this takes a bit of work, it’s worth it since you’ll have more tender, flavor-intensive slices of fruit). Here’s a video.

  3. Arrange the citrus segments on plates topped with some of the mascarpone. Serve as-is or garnish with finely grated, bittersweet chocolate or a scattering of fresh mint leaves. I like to serve this with a cookie, such as pistaschio-orange shortbread.

Alentejo, by Cassie Guy

Lastly, if you are wondering how to help the must vulnerable members of your community right now, consider supporting your local mutual aid network, which you can locate using this resource. For local Brooklyn folks I absolutely love The Service Collective, which offers tons of kid-friendly volunteer opportunities, so the whole family can help out. Thank you, Marji, for setting up a recent fun project through TSC, assembling toiletry kits with our middle schoolers.

Citrus is Good Medicine

Happy 2021! My office is currently doubling as a (very loud) 2nd grade classroom. More broadly, the new year so far seems like a bad sequel to the weird movie that was 2020.

Zoom Life (James) by Kamila Zmrzla @topbunartist

Zoom Life (James) by Kamila Zmrzla @topbunartist

So let’s escape, for a moment, into all things citrus. It’s something I do in an ordinary January, but as this winter calls for an especially deep dive, I thought I would share some of my resources, ideas, and recipes for the juicy, puckery citrus fruits that are coming at us. In normal times my relationship with citrus has bordered on obsessive, as was revealed a few years back when I smuggled a dozen giant lemons and citrons back from Italy, only to narrowly wriggle my way out of a scrape with customs agents (ask my kids about this). The lemons made it home to my kitchen, but I don’t recommend making children your citrus mules.

citrus.jpg

First, if you’ve been underwhelmed by the citrus on offer at your local supermarket, here are some sources that bring fresh fruit to your door:

I recently discovered that Etsy—yes Etsy! is a treasure trove of fresh citrus fruits, shipped straight from someone’s sunny orchard in California or Florida. In fact, you can find all manner of exotic produce, seeds, and saplings—technically sold under “gifts”—on Etsy. 🤯 I recently ordered a box of pretty pink cara cara oranges from this shop and a box of blood oranges and unwaxed meyer lemons from here. It’s an interesting way to shop, since even with travel distance the supply chain is more direct.

As I was sitting down to begin this post, Mark Bittman’s newsletter slid into my emails. It’s devoted to all things citrus and he’s offering a box of mail order oranges, lemons, limes, etc. from California, along with some of his always excellent ideas and recipes.

Got a green thumb and a sunny window? You can order your own lil’ key lime, Meyer lemon, or Australian finger lime tree to keep you company (and bear fruit) through the winter months. Via Citrus and Four Winds Growers both ship to most states.

Frog Hollow Farm is also a solid source for great quality, seasonal citrus and other fruits.

Natoora, which aggregates produce from small growers, has many specialty varieties of citrus that you don’t see in stores available for delivery this time of year.

Recipe ideas:

Do you need a drink? If I had to pick just one cocktail, it would be the puckery and spicy tequila potion my sister Cassie regularly concocts, which has taken hold in my own household. Hey! We’re just warding off scurvy. The “recipe” is this: Squeeze together mixed varieties of citrus, serve the juice over ice with a splash of soda and as much tequila as you want or need. I don’t sweeten it, but you can put in a bit of agave, simple syrup, or sweetener of choice. Scatter in some jalapeño slices to spice it up. Taste and trust yourself!

I usually keep loads of lemons on hand, since a squeeze of the juice is a nifty way to bring up flavors and even reduce the amount of salt you need. One of our favorite weeknight dinners is a one-pan chicken with lemons, caperberries, and potatoes. Also on the savory side is this Citrus, fennel, and green olive salad. There’s plenty of sweet stuff on my site, too, including recipes for meyer lemon ginger curd, which is like silky sunshine spread on toasted croissants in the morning, and a lemon-quark snacking cake, which never sticks around very long after I make it. To satisfy a craving for both chocolate and citrus, try these Chocolate-Orange Pots de Crème—they are adult grade pudding cups.

Also, you should know about Andy Baraghani’s whole lemon-sesame sauce at Bon Appétit. It was the first thing I made with those contraband Amalfi Coast lemons, and it’s stellar with salmon.

Here’s a basic recipe for making preserved lemons, which are an essential pantry item in this house. I’m fond of slicing them very thinly (you eat them rind and all) and laying them atop sardines on toast, and I also make a tahini sauce that’s loaded up with preserved lemons and a little garlic.

This Blood Orange Bundt Cake with Bitters, from Eyeswoon, is truly magical. If you’re looking for a vegan version there’s a gorgeous one over on Fare Isle.

If you’re still here I’m sharing a totally unrelated link for this extraordinary story by Ann Patchett that has really stuck with me since a friend forwarded it along. It speaks of human connection and the mysteries of life, and yes the silver linings of Covid. It’s a lengthy one, so grab a slice of lemon cake or a tequila-citrus cocktail and find a comfortable spot.